Guys, how many of you have a few hand tools that ALWAYS live up to your expectations? I have some and they never let me down, not in the rain, snow, hot summer or when I’m in a hurry and don’t use them exactly as intended.
One such tool is my air gauge. I use it to check pressures in all our tires; from our 3 SUVs to the 4-wheeler to our trailers, bikes and even to thinks like a two-wheel dolly and our portable generator. So many of my things have wheels and with those wheels – TIRES.
Invest in one of these and you won’t be disappointed. This Accu-Gage has been a steady high performing tool for years for me and I have it in my lifted Land Cruiser at all times.
Click the picture to check it out on Amazon, this thing is selling for under $20 with the protective rubber cover. This cover wasn’t on my original Accu-Gage, but I think it is a great addition to protect it from the occasional drop on hard concrete or a rock.
I’ll be posting up my favorite tools weekly, so check back often!
When it comes to restoring a vehicle, there are three phases a person goes through to get it done. One is the teardown, where all the old parts must be pulled off and apart. This consist of many hours of taking old things apart that most of the time don’t want to come apart. Some, it seems, are even melded together after 45-50 years! Second, you have to clean it all up, restore broken parts, find a few missing parts and paint or chrome or polish everything. Third you get to put back together all those nicely restored parts. This is my favorite phase of any restoration. Today I’ve been working on leaf springs that belong to my 1967 F100 Pickup project. After removing the spring packs from the truck, and disassembling them, I needed to press out the very worn bushing in the eyelets of the main springs. The shackles also have a bushing that needs replacing. I used some sockets that were just the right size and pressed them out with my shop press.
These things were nasty…
I don’t think the bushings in the shackles had ever been replaced in 49 years! They were very hard to get out.
I sandblasted them and went through about 200 lbs of blasting media.
Once sandblasted, I was ready to thoroughly clean them. For the use of my paint of choice, POR 15, I have to first degrease them completely
Between each prep phase, they must be dried well… My tool of choice for that… the leaf blower
After degreasing, I then needed to etch them and stop any microscopic rust. I used Metal Prep by the folks at POR 15.
Once dried and brought up to about 65 deg. in the shop I started the job of painting them. More on the next post. Take care guys!
Guys, I’ve been rebuilding the junkyard 2000 Explorer Rearend for my ’67 F100 build and I’ve ran into a hiccup. This little part is frozen up on both sides and I can’t find it anywhere online or at stores…
These are the little levers that are pulled on when the e-brake cable is pulled tight. They expand the two parking brake shoes inside the disk brake rotor thus holding the axle.
These little guys are supposed to pivot at the rivet you see holding them together, but mine are very (I repeat very) hard to move. I can get them to move if I put one end in a bench vise and hit the other piece with a hammer, but that is the only way to make them budge.
I can’t see any part numbers on them and haven’t been able to find them anywhere online…. Any thoughts or help?
Lastly, I’ve soaked them overnight in penetrating oil, rust inhibitor and oil. Nothing is working.
Got the whole family involved in this little hobby of mine when we took the front clip off the F100 in preparation for the transplant of the Ford Crown Victoria Front Suspension swap. Check out the video –
I’ve introduced you all to the new project truck and we knew the first thing that had to happen was the engine needed an overhaul. So we’ve pulled the engine, got it on an engine stand in the shop and have started the disassembly process.
We used an engine hoist and now the engine has been transferred to an engine stand.
I’m taking my time and really looking this engine over as I wanted to satisfy my curiosity about where my antifreeze was disappearing to! As with most engines the head gaskets can over time begin to leak and this can allow coolant to seep, or to be sucked, into the nearby cylinders. These leaks can be large or small, but cause several tale tale signs to happen when the engine runs.
For the 1 year I’ve owned the ’67 F100 pickup, I’ve noticed how the right tail pipe will smoke more than the left (they were both smoking some (blue smoke), but the right one (passenger side in the US) was really smoking worse and it was a white smoke sometimes like thick condensation smoke that you see in cooler weather from most car’s exhaust pipes.
In addition there was the constant need to refill the radiator; often adding a pint or so of fluid at at time to return the level back to full. Lastly, the top radiator hose would balloon up and get super tight as if it were under tremendous pressure. I know the radiator cap would let the pressure go if it got too bad, but what was happening was the cylinder was pumping steam into the water jacket of the engine via the leaking head gasket and this steam was ballooning up the top hose. I often would grab the lower hose during these times and the bottom hose was only warm to the touch. I think the radiator will have to be reworked as well and may not have been flowing perfectly.
All this leads to a busted head gasket! So in this video, I try to capture some footage of the various tear-down steps to see those heads, the gaskets and the block surfaces where they all come together. I discover a few more things in the process…. let’s just say it was a good time for this engine to come out for some much needed attention. Check it out and stay tuned for the next video where we continue the process. Take care, Clay
I’m starting a new series on my Youtube Channel – 1967 F100 restoration.
This series should be fun and very informative at the same time. If you’ve ever restored a vehicle or you are currently restoring one, you will understand the love hate relationship you can have with these projects…. Mostly love, but man sometimes you can grow to hate a particular part of the rebuild process… for me, it’s sourcing all the correct parts. I used to have fun in the various junk yards around Greenville, Tx; searching through the isles of trucks and cars until I found the approximate vintage vehicles to pilfer through. Looking for those obscure parts that were broken or missing on my latest “masterpiece to be”.
Now-a-days the junk yards that you can still walk freely around in are called something like, “Pick-a-part” or “Pick-ur-parts” and you have to sign a waiver and almost give blood to get back there… But there are still some parts that can be found.
I’m currently post processing my first intro video of the project and should be linking it in here in the next day or so. I plan to do a lot to the truck, like making it an everyday driver; safer, okay on milage, nice driving manners, a good stance, a refreshed motor and drive line and lastly the interior and body mods needed to make it mine.
For the engine, the truck came with the original (VIN matching) FE big block in the 352 ci size. I plan to keep this engine, but I’ve already discovered that the engine is drinking coolant; so that means a head gasket or cracked head. So I’ve recently obtained a donor motor – a 1962 390 FE. The heads are the same model heads as the ones on my 352, so I’ve already got them refreshed at the local machine shop. 3-angle grind on the valves, .010 off the face of the heads to true them up, painted flat black (for now), sitting in my shop ready to go on the engine.